Well, I've got one memory that's always been with me.
My dad would get up to go surf about 4:30 or 5:00 and sometimes
I would hear him and go out in the living room and he'd be getting is board up,
Out of the closet, like right in the dining
Room where he kept his board.
And one day I remember the waves were really good.
And um, it was really cool just getting up
And going down there, it was off-shore.
I remember just sitting there watching my dad surf and from that point on,
I always kinda like.. felt like a surfer, you know?
I always knew that I would definitely.. be surfing forever.